2 iceberg Hotels

A couple of hours by boat from Greenland's capital, past waterfalls and drifting icebergs, sits a small cluster of heated tents where the only sounds at night are ice cracking in the water and wind against canvas. There's no phone signal, no wifi, and – depending on the season – …

At Hotel Icefiord in Ilulissat, Greenland, the staff keep a chalkboard in the restaurant where they mark a line for every whale spotted from the terrace each month. Some months it fills up fast. It's a bit of a running joke among them, but it also sums up the whole …