The road from Lisbon airport winds through increasingly peaceful countryside before depositing you at what feels like the edge of the world. Here, perched on the cliffs of Praia Grande, sits the Arribas Sintra Hotel – a modest 4-star establishment that happens to hold the rather grand title of mainland Europe's most westerly hotel.
It's a claim that sounds more impressive than it feels. This isn't some remote outpost requiring a treacherous journey; it's a comfortable 40-minute drive from Lisbon, nestled in the genteel hills of Sintra. The town itself is a UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for its fairy-tale palaces and the sort of romantic gardens that make you wonder if the Portuguese have a secret pact with Instagram.
The hotel's location is its greatest asset. Praia Grande stretches endlessly in both directions, often surprisingly empty even during decent weather. It's the sort of beach that makes you wonder why anyone bothers with the Algarve when this wild stretch of Atlantic coastline exists just up the road.
Sintra itself is a 15-minute drive inland; it's close enough for easy palace-hopping while far enough to feel properly removed from tourist crowds.
The hotel underwent a significant makeover in 2023, emerging with that particular brand of contemporary décor that seems designed to offend absolutely no one.
Arribas Terrace Restaurant
Breakfast is served in the main restaurant with views over both the pool and ocean – a spread that includes the requisite continental offerings alongside Portuguese specialties like pastéis de nata.
The coffee is decent, the orange juice freshly squeezed, and there's enough variety to fuel a day of exploring Sintra's palaces or hiking the dramatic coastline.
Family Suite
The 60 rooms all come with private balconies facing the Atlantic, though the views vary dramatically depending on which floor you land on.
Superior Room
The first floor offers a pleasant but pool-interrupted vista, while the third floor apparently provides the full cinematic ocean experience – for a premium, naturally.
Ocean pool at Arribas Sintra Hotel
What sets Arribas apart is its 100-meter saltwater swimming pool, fed directly from the sea and proudly billed as one of Europe's largest.
The water hovers between 19°C and 24°C, which is to say it's bracing rather than bathwater warm. But there's something rather satisfying about doing laps in seawater while the Atlantic crashes against the rocks below, even if your teeth are chattering slightly.
The pool isn't exclusive to hotel guests, which adds a refreshingly democratic touch. Locals and day-trippers pay between €15-29 for adults depending on the season, transforming what could be a sterile hotel amenity into something approaching a community space.
The sandy beach of Praia Grande
The Atlantic here has a particular quality – wild and moody in a way that makes the Mediterranean seem positively tame. Standing in the sand, watching the waves crash against the rocks while the lights of fishing boats dot the horizon, you understand why the Portuguese once believed this was where the world ended.
Av. Alfredo Coelho 28, 2705-329 Sintra, Portugal
