Cempedak Island - 50,000 Pieces of Bamboo and One Perfect Indonesian Escape

Imagine an island where 50,000 pieces of bamboo were woven into villas perched among granite boulders, where dolphins occasionally drift past at breakfast, and where the biggest decision you'll face is whether to watch the sunrise or sunset from your private plunge pool.

This is Cempedak, a 17-hectare Indonesian hideaway that proves sustainability and luxury aren't mutually exclusive. No air conditioning hums here – just sea breezes cooling bamboo structures that spiral skyward like organic sculptures.

The island runs on solar power, transforms kitchen scraps into chicken feed via black soldier fly larvae, and sources produce from its own seven-hectare farm on nearby Bintan. Yet this eco-consciousness never feels preachy or sacrificial.

With just 20 villas for guests aged 15 and up, you'll find tennis on natural grass courts (possibly the only ones in Indonesia), cocktails at a floating bar converted from a fishing platform, and a spa perched atop boulders overlooking the ocean. This is Robinson Crusoe reimagined for adults who appreciate both wild nature and crisp organic cotton sheets.

Location

Cempedak sits 23 kilometers south of its sister property, Nikoi Island, in the Riau archipelago off Indonesia's coast. Getting here from Singapore's Tanah Merah ferry terminal takes roughly two and a half hours – an hour by catamaran to Bintan, followed by an hour's drive across the island and a final 30-minute speedboat ride. The journey feels longer than the actual distance, which works in the island's favor. By the time you step onto Cempedak's jetty, Singapore's skyscrapers feel worlds away.

The island's 17 hectares divide neatly into thirds. The southern portion holds all the villas and facilities, while the northern two-thirds remain untouched primary rainforest – a protected sanctuary where monitor lizards rustle through undergrowth and hornbills call from the canopy. Granite boulders erupt from the jungle like natural sculptures, some incorporated directly into the island's architecture.

The Restaurant

The main restaurant commands a rocky outcrop with views that steal focus from whatever's on your plate – though that would be a shame, because the food deserves attention. Elevated wooden walkways lead to a bamboo structure offering multiple dining configurations: tree-shaded pods for privacy, a long balcony for sunset watching, or intimate tables that jut toward the sea like natural peninsulas.

Here's the clever bit: the menu is entirely set, posted daily on blackboards in the dining room. Chef Dika and the team focus on whatever's freshest from local markets and the island's own farm – you might find nasi lemak alongside pineapple crumble with coconut sorbet, sweet and sour tempeh, or risotto studded with local crayfish.

Breakfast brings barista-made coffee, fresh fruit, and a choice between Western and Indonesian mains. Lunch tends toward shared Indonesian feasts. Dinner unfolds in multiple courses that balance local tradition with international techniques.

The Dodo Bar

This triple-tier bamboo tower rises above the water like something Frank Lloyd Wright might have designed had he worked exclusively in natural materials and been slightly obsessed with tropical cocktails. Inside, David Bowie spins on a bamboo record player (yes, really), while you sink into seating that faces west for optimal sunset viewing.

The bartenders here have earned a reputation for both classic cocktails and drinks that incorporate local flavors. When weather cooperates and seas calm, the experience gets even better. The team floats out a converted kelong – a traditional fishing platform – that becomes a bar bobbing offshore. You can order swim-up drinks while the sun melts into the South China Sea, which feels about as close to paradise as most of us will get.

The Accommodations

All 20 villas share identical footprints of over 150 square meters – roughly the size of a tennis court. The only difference between them is location and view. Each is a two-story bamboo masterpiece topped with traditional alang alang grass roofing, featuring curvaceous walls and spiral staircases that wind seashell-like between floors.

Downstairs you'll find a lounge with guest bathroom, a bar setup, a large deck, sun loungers, and that private plunge pool. Upstairs: vaulted ceilings, bamboo ceiling fans, king beds dressed in organic white cotton and draped with mosquito nets, and ensuite bathrooms combining hot water showers with natural stone and recycled teak.

The design philosophy is minimalist but not austere. Reclaimed teak furniture, wood-carved cempedak fruit sculptures, touches of Pierre Frey fabrics. No television, no hairdryer, no bathtub – and you won't miss any of them. There's one iPad for contacting staff, plus yoga mats and TRX systems for the actively inclined. WiFi exists but can be patchy, which feels almost intentional in the best possible way.

The front of each villa opens entirely to the elements during the day, with folding glass doors pushed back to invite in the tropical breeze. At night, you close them for soundproofing and to keep insects out, relying on ceiling fans if warmth becomes an issue.

Beach Villas

If you're the type who wants to roll out of bed and into the ocean, these are your pick. A small path leads from the back of the villa directly to the shoreline, making spontaneous sea swims effortless.

The tradeoff for beach access is the view – you're looking at sand and water rather than the broader bay panorama – but for many, that immediate connection to the shore more than compensates.

The setup remains the same as all villas: 150 square meters, two floors, that droplet-shaped plunge pool on the ground level deck.

You're positioned just meters from the water, close enough to hear waves even with the glass doors closed.

Seaview Villas

These villas trade beach access for postcard panoramas. From your deck and bedroom balcony, you look across the bay to uninhabited islands dotting the horizon, watching the water change color as light shifts throughout the day. Sunrise becomes a theatrical event you can watch from bed.

The elevated position means you catch more breeze, which on humid days feels like winning the lottery. The same two-floor layout applies, the same amenities, the same generous spacing that ensures you'll never see or hear neighboring villas.

You'll spend hours in that plunge pool, alternating between floating and gazing at the view, time dissolving into something pleasantly meaningless.

The Rock Spa

Built atop granite boulders in an eastern mangrove bay, the Rock Spa feels less like a typical resort amenity and more like a natural wonder someone cleverly incorporated into the island's design.

The menu includes massages, facials, manicures, and pedicures of varying durations, all using locally sourced virgin coconut oil and Sensatia products.

All three double treatment rooms face the ocean, positioned so you can hear waves against the rocky shoreline below while experiencing whatever treatment you've booked.

The Ocean Breeze Massage earns its name – you're cooled by actual sea breezes rather than air conditioning, which somehow makes the whole experience feel more authentic. Book well in advance; the spa's combination of stunning views and skilled therapists keeps it heavily booked.

The Social Hub: Pool and Boathouse

The communal pool sits at the Boathouse, overlooking the main beach area and functioning as something of a social hub. It's larger than the villa plunge pools and comes with its own bar where staff stand ready to mix drinks while you lounge. The water sports center operates from here too, so there's a pleasant sense of activity without chaos – people collecting paddleboards, others returning from kayak trips, someone inevitably debating whether to try windsurfing.

Cabanas line the beach beyond the pool. The whole setup feels designed for those afternoon hours when you want to be around other people but not necessarily talking to them – everyone reading books, occasionally looking up to watch someone sail past on a Laser dinghy or attempt jetty jumping under staff supervision.

Activities

While Cempedak offers extensive activities – archery, tennis, rock climbing, sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, snorkeling, diving for the certified – yoga deserves special mention for how it's practiced here. Sessions happen on request for a small additional charge, and the settings change based on time of day and weather.

Sunrise yoga typically takes place on the main jetty, which extends over the water and catches the first light. Afternoon sessions often move to the yoga shala next to the tennis courts, tucked into the jungle where the canopy provides natural shade.

The instructors tailor sessions to your level and interests. You might focus on restorative poses after a day of diving, or push into more challenging sequences if you're feeling energetic.

The Beaches

Here's where expectations need adjusting: if you're picturing endless stretches of powdery white sand, Cempedak will surprise you. The beaches here are slender ribbons of gilt-colored sand, more intimate than expansive, more rocky romance than Caribbean postcard. Hermit crabs skitter across shells scattered where the South China Sea meets shore.

The main beach sits in front of the Boathouse and pool – small but picturesque, perfect for those who want to grab snorkeling gear and explore the reef surrounding the island. Beach Villas have their own access points, though again, these are narrow strips rather than wide sweeps.

Wildlife

Two-thirds of the island remains protected primary rainforest, which means wildlife encounters happen regularly if you pay attention. Monitor lizards – some impressively large – wander through the composting areas and occasionally across paths. Hornbills call from the canopy, their distinctive sounds echoing through the jungle. Swallowtail butterflies drift past in flashes of color.

In the mangrove areas, white-bellied sea eagles patrol from above. Lucky visitors spot Irrawaddy dolphins or otters from their villas or while out on the water. The island hosts rarer species too: pangolins, silver leaf monkeys, Nicobar pigeons. Naturalists and marine biologists regularly survey the flora and fauna, monitoring everything from coral health to water quality.

The morning nature walks that depart from the Boathouse at 9am offer the best introduction to this ecosystem.