Chalet Resort Zu Kirchwies - Scottish Highland Cattle and Silence in the Dolomites

A place that opens with "We're not a wellness fortress with animated breakfast buffets" is making a specific promise. At Zu Kirchwies, a small chalet village in Laion, South Tyrol, you won't find golden taps or petting-zoo charm. What you will find: Scottish Highland cattle wandering the property, a family that's been perfecting hospitality for over 50 years, and chalets designed for adults who've earned their peace.

The Plieger family runs a working farm alongside their adults-only resort, producing everything from bresaola to handcrafted wooden candleholders. Their infinity pool appears to spill directly into the Dolomites. And their newest accommodation, the Forest Villa, sprawls across nearly 200 square meters of reclaimed wood and mountain views. If you're after quiet luxury without the performance of it, this might be your spot.

Location

Zu Kirchwies sits at the entrance to Val Gardena, tucked into the village of Laion (the locals call it "Loidn"). You're two minutes from the village center, where you'll find: a bakery, butcher, pharmacy, and restaurants.

The Dolomiti Superski area lies 15 minutes away, with 1,200 kilometers of slopes including access to the legendary Sellaronda circuit. The Seiser Alm, Europe's largest alpine meadow, is a 20-minute drive. For those keeping score: Chiusa is 10 minutes away, Bressanone 20, Merano 50.

The village has managed to avoid the theme-park treatment that's befallen other Alpine destinations. It remains what it is: a mountain village with hiking trails starting from your doorstep and locals who still enjoy meeting visitors.

The Plieger Family and Their Highland Herd

Frieda and Alois Plieger started renting rooms at Kirchwieserhof in 1971. Their son Walter and his wife Rosamunde took over in 1999, and now three generations work the property. Walter, a former joiner and music teacher, designed and built much of the resort himself. He manages the fruit orchards and cattle farm, producing juices and charcuterie. Rosamunde handles the business side and creates products for breakfast service. Their three children, Elias, Hannes, and Hannah, all trained in hospitality and now run day-to-day operations, from breakfast service to cattle farming to baking.

The real stars, though, might be the farm animals. The Scottish Highland cattle provide bresaola and other charcuterie that appears at breakfast. Chickens deliver daily eggs. The family's toy poodle, Willi, charms everyone. And their cat, Maja, has apparently decided this is an excellent place to lounge about, which seems like a reasonable assessment.

Walter also runs a small workshop where he crafts wooden candleholders and other pieces, while Hannah makes scented sachets with lavender and rose petals.

Culinary Delights

You get four breakfast options, which is refreshingly practical. Option one: a set breakfast table in your chalet with regional specialties delivered and arranged. Option two: a buffet breakfast for those who prefer variety and company. Option three: fresh rolls hung quietly at your door each morning. Option four: skip it all and use your fully equipped kitchen.

The food leans heavily on what the farm produces. That Highland cattle herd yields outstanding salami, Kaminwurzen (smoked dried sausage), and bresaola. The chickens contribute eggs. Everything else comes from trusted local producers under a simple motto: "Narrisch guat," which translates roughly to "insanely good."

During summer, the family hosts barbecue evenings. For other meals, numerous restaurants sit within walking distance, ranging from traditional South Tyrolean fare to fine dining. The Pliegers will handle reservations if you'd like.

Tree Chalet

The Tree Chalet sits at the forest's edge, tucked among the treetops like an oversized nest. It covers 100 square meters plus a 30-square-meter terrace, all on one level. You get a whirlpool, private sauna, and south-facing views through floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the Dolomites.

The interior mixes reclaimed wood with plenty of natural light. Amenities include a fully equipped kitchen, walk-in shower, effect fireplace, and what they call a "cuddle lounger," which appears to be their term for an oversized daybed.

It's positioned for privacy, hidden from other chalets and shielded by trees. Birds provide the morning alarm. The forest provides the evening soundtrack. It's designed specifically for two people who want to be left alone.

Forest Villa

The brand-new Forest Villa nearly doubles the Tree Chalet's footprint at 200 square meters across two levels.

You get a balcony, terrace, and private lawn with valley views. The whirlpool and sauna are yours alone. An oversized bed dominates the master bedroom. The fully equipped wooden kitchen sits beside a stone-carved bathroom with a bathtub.

Details matter here: reclaimed wood throughout, light-filled rooms, a cuddle lounger, fireplace effect, controlled fresh air ventilation.

Outside, you're surrounded by forest and mountains with nobody watching. The resort calls it "sunny, secluded, unseen," which tracks.

It's designed for couples who want space to lose themselves in togetherness without losing amenities.

Think of it as a small home away from home, assuming your home comes with Dolomite views and absolute privacy.

Panoramic Infinity Pool

The infinity pool runs from early April through November, heated and built from natural stones. It's positioned so you appear to swim endlessly toward the Dolomite peaks. One wall features scattered stones with valley views below. The water surface seems to merge with the mountain landscape, creating that borderless effect infinity pools promise but don't always deliver.

Around the pool: sunbed islands, loungers, umbrellas, and silence. The combination of crystal-clear mountain spring water, fresh air, and unobstructed views creates what the resort calls "wellness at the highest level." No golden taps required.

Activities

Summer opens up the region for exploration. You can hike countless trails, attempt daring climbs, or book a scenic helicopter flight over the Dolomites. Golf enthusiasts receive green fee discounts at the St. Vigil/Seis Golf Club. The local tourism association offers guided themed hikes and high-altitude Dolomite treks.

Cyclists can roll directly from the chalet village through the valley or up Raschötz, the local mountain, which features two huts for refueling. Stronger riders tackle the passes at their own pace. The Sellaronda route covers 55 kilometers, four passes, and 700 meters of elevation gain. The resort rents e-bikes with helmets and locks included for those who prefer electric assistance.

But hiking remains the main draw. Trails start literally at your doorstep and fan out across the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can walk 10 minutes to the Wasserbühl, mysterious cup-stones that locals consider high-energy sites.

Or venture farther into the mountains, where the combination of natural beauty and ancient legends creates the kind of experience that justifies the journey. The chalets wait for your return: whirlpool ready, sauna heated, mountain views intact.