In the Austrian village of Leogang, a family-run hotel has just pulled off something remarkable. The Krallerhof isn't content with being another five-star alpine retreat – it's gone and built what might be Europe's most architecturally audacious spa. Picture a 50-meter infinity pool suspended in a lake, with the jagged peaks of the Steinerne Meer reflected in its still surface. Add in a blue grotto that glows like something from a sci-fi film, a rotunda centered around three water goddess sculptures, and a Finnish sauna where you watch the mountains turn purple at sunset. This isn't your grandmother's Austrian wellness resort.
The Altenberger family, now in their fourth generation of running the place, have managed to balance their heritage with a willingness to take creative risks. The result is a property that feels simultaneously rooted in tradition and defiantly contemporary – where you'll find 500 works of art scattered throughout the hotel, longevity cuisine based on cutting-edge research, and a cigar lounge styled like a gentleman's club.
Two Hours from Munich, A World Away
Leogang sits in the heart of the Austrian Alps, tucked into Salzburg's mountainous landscape. You can reach it from Munich in two hours – a scenic drive that delivers you straight to the resort's doorstep. The hotel sits directly beside the Steinberg cable car station, which means proper ski-in, ski-out access to the Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn, one of Austria's most extensive ski areas with 270 kilometers of groomed runs and 70 lifts.
Leogang itself offers a quieter alternative to the more raucous après-ski scenes of neighboring Saalbach and Hinterglemm. In summer, the village transforms into a mountain biking mecca, home to the world-famous Bikepark Leogang, while hiking trails and forest bathing experiences draw those seeking gentler pursuits.
From Farm to Family Empire: Four Generations of Risk-Taking
The Krallerhof began life in 1956 as a traditional farm. What distinguishes it from countless other alpine properties is the Altenberger family's consistent willingness to reimagine what a mountain hotel could be. They describe themselves as "grounded yet prepared to take great leaps," and the evidence is everywhere – from their early commitment to sustainability (they planted 700 trees and designed a spa that only requires heating for two months annually) to their 2025 artist residency program, which brought nine international artists to create installations throughout the property.
The family's philosophy centers on "quiet luxury" and authentic experiences rather than ostentatious displays. They're refreshingly frank about their approach: "Higher, faster, further? We are much more focused on being more conscious, higher quality and more remarkable." It's a statement backed up by details – master bakers producing fresh bread daily, homemade jams and syrups, and a wine program showcasing Austria's finest producers.
The Restaurant
Dining at the Krallerhof is surprisingly unpretentious for a property of this caliber. Breakfast runs until 11:30 am – a godsend for anyone who's spent the previous day skiing – and features breads from the hotel's own bakery, along with housemade preserves, alpine cheeses, and a live cooking station with daily specials.
The afternoon snack service, held between 2:30 pm and 4:30 pm, offers soups, hearty bites, and fresh cakes – perfectly timed for post-slope or post-spa refueling. Evening meals follow a daily changing multi-course format that blends traditional Austrian techniques with contemporary touches. Expect local game from surrounding forests, trout from nearby streams, and seasonal ingredients sourced directly from Leogang suppliers.
The hotel has recently introduced longevity cuisine throughout its offerings, marked with blue dots on menus. These dishes are designed to be gut-friendly, anti-inflammatory, and cell-protective, though they've maintained what they call "the characteristic Krallerhof taste." For those seeking something more elevated, the Signature Chef's Table offers a ten-course menu (awarded 90 Falstaff points in 2023) in an intimate setting for up to ten diners.
Then there's Glocke.Die Bar, which takes its cocktail program seriously. Bartenders work with herbs from the hotel's garden and foraged ingredients from surrounding forests to create signature drinks. The attached cigar lounge channels classic British style, complete with a library of coffee table books, an open fireplace, and those omnipresent mountain views.
Rooms and Suites
Fürstenhof double room
The 124 rooms and suites at Krallerhof resist the bland uniformity that plagues so many hotel chains. Each space has been individually designed, ranging from 375 to 1,290 square feet, with bold color choices and unexpected details defining the aesthetic. The design philosophy pairs noble materials with rustic ones – aged wood meets contemporary minimalism, stone surfaces contrast with plush textiles.
Hesse double room
Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the mountain views, while artworks from the hotel's collection add character to each room. The interiors favor what they call "exclusive and surprisingly different" style over safe choices.
Ultramarin Suite's bathroom
Expect warm woods, natural stone, and a general sense that someone actually thought about how these spaces would feel to inhabit, not just photograph.
Atmosphere: The Design
Atmosphere
When architect Hadi Teherani set out to design Atmosphere, his brief was ambitious: create a spa large enough to make a statement but organic enough to feel like it belonged in the landscape. What emerged is a structure that manages to be both monumental and self-effacing – a 5,500-square-meter complex that somehow doesn't overwhelm its mountain setting.
Teherani describes his vision as creating "a building that is subordinate to this wonderful landscape, but still present." The spa, which opened in December 2023, achieves this through clean lines, natural materials, and a layout that constantly orients you toward the surrounding peaks. It's architecture as experience rather than monument – spaces designed for "an innovative way of regeneration and inspiration" rather than showing off.
The complex is adults-only for those 15 and older, with a designated family area at the natural bathing lake for younger visitors.
The Lakeside Café
Café am See
This lakeside café blurs the boundary between interior and exterior through a retractable glass façade that opens entirely in good weather. The philosophy here is "wellbeing by the plate" – regional dishes made from locally produced ingredients, alongside signature drinks and what they call "booster shots." It's positioned as "detox and retox inspired by nature," which is a refreshingly honest way to describe a menu that accommodates both green juices and Stiegl beer.
The café's real draw is its position overlooking both the 50-meter pool and the broader lake, with the Steinerne Meer mountain range providing the backdrop. On colder days, you can wrap yourself in fur blankets while watching flames dance in fire baskets positioned around the water's edge.
Lounge
Atmosphere's Lounge
The spa's relaxation areas emphasize what the hotel calls "space as the new luxury." Rather than cramming in features, Atmosphere prioritizes emptiness – room to breathe, think, or simply stare at mountains. These aren't places designed for socializing; they're sanctuaries for genuine rest.
Relaxation Room
This room earns special mention for its ventilation system, specifically designed for allergy sufferers. The panoramic windows frame views of the Steinerne Meer, and the space maintains a meditative quiet that encourages actual relaxation rather than performance of it. It's a thoughtful inclusion that speaks to the hotel's attention to detail beyond surface-level amenities.
Finnish Sauna
Heated between 80 and 100 degrees Celsius, this sauna shares space with a separate herbal sauna (60-65 degrees) behind a glass partition. Both offer direct views of the Steinerne Meer and Leogang Steinberge mountains. The experience of sitting in intense heat while watching mountain light shift across snow and rock has an almost hypnotic quality – particularly at sunset when the peaks take on purple tones.
Blue Grotto
Blue Grotto
The hotel describes this simply as "a very special place" and suggests you "just let it sink on you," which is admirably vague marketing copy. What you actually get is a heated pool (35 degrees Celsius) in a cave-like setting with a silver ceiling that creates an otherworldly atmosphere. It's designed as an energetic center – a space for floating, thinking, or not thinking, depending on your mood.
The Yoga Shala
Positioned to overlook the Steinerne Meer, this room hosts daily yoga sessions in what's described as an "extraordinary, energetic atmosphere." The mountain views through floor-to-ceiling windows provide a far more compelling focal point than the usual yoga studio wall.
Rotunda - Three Goddesses and a Water Staircase
Rotunda
The rotunda serves as the architectural link between the main hotel and Atmosphere. At its center sits an Alpine Zen garden and a water staircase, whose characteristic splashing provides constant ambient sound. Three bronze sculptures by Coderch & Malavia – water goddesses named Galene, Clio's Dream, and Kymo – anchor the space with their flowing lines and organic forms.
Fire, Ice, and Everything Nice on the Sun Terrace
Sun deck with jacuzzi
The sun terrace wraps around the entire lake on a circular path, offering shifting perspectives on both the water and surrounding mountains. A whirlpool pool heated to 36 degrees sits embedded in the lake itself. For those seeking cold therapy after sauna sessions, a separate plunge pool offers views of the Steinerne Meer while delivering the shock your system needs.
Infinity 50 - Swimming Olympic Laps While Mountains Watch
Infinity 50
This is Atmosphere's centerpiece: a 50-meter infinity pool that appears to float within the larger natural lake. Maintained at approximately 30 degrees Celsius year-round, it reaches 1.6 meters deep and runs the full Olympic length. The effect of swimming laps while mountains reflect in perfectly still water around you is genuinely transporting – it's the rare architectural gesture that actually delivers on its visual promise.
The 5,500-Square-Meter Natural Wonder
The Lake
The 5,500-square-meter natural bathing lake represents a significant commitment to biodiversity. One-third of its surface is covered by a planted belt that supports local ecosystems. The lake was filled once using the hotel's own spring, and now maintains its water level through natural cycles of evaporation and precipitation. It reaches depths of up to three meters, with the designated family area welcoming younger swimmers.
The Refugium
The Refugium
Atmosphere might grab headlines, but the Refugium – the hotel's original wellness area – remains substantial in its own right. This family-friendly spa includes nine saunas and steam baths, multiple treatment rooms for massages and beauty services, and a fitness area with professional equipment. The design philosophy blends Eastern and Western wellness traditions, with offerings that span Shiatsu, Ayurveda, hot stone treatments, and various body therapies.
The Refugium's aesthetic differs from Atmosphere's minimalist approach – here you'll find more traditional alpine wellness elements, including a brine inhalation grotto with atomized sea salts and essential oils, and the Nitsch Raum, a meditation space featuring six works by artist Hermann Nitsch.
Pools That Welcome the Whole Family, All Year Long
Indoor family pool
The indoor pool sits beneath a slate sound dome and connects directly to the outdoor family pool, which operates year-round. Unlike Atmosphere's adults-only policy, these pools welcome children of all ages, along with the family sauna and waterbed areas.
Outdoor family pool
The outdoor pool maintains comfortable temperatures even in winter, making it a genuine four-season amenity.
From Your Door to the Slopes in Seconds
The ski-in, ski-out access isn't marketing hyperbole – you genuinely step out the hotel door onto slopes. The Steinberg piste and piste 91 lead directly back to the property, meaning your car can remain in the underground garage for your entire stay. The Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn offers terrain for all abilities, from groomed cruisers to off-piste challenges.
Summer shifts the focus to mountain biking, with Bikepark Leogang drawing riders from across Europe. Hiking trails range from gentle forest walks to serious alpine routes. The hotel actively promotes forest bathing – the Japanese practice of therapeutic time in woodland – through guided experiences. Fishing in pristine mountain streams offers a contemplative alternative for those seeking gentler pursuits.
The hotel's longevity program adds another dimension, with treatments including red light therapy, cryotherapy in a cold chamber, IHHT oxygen training, and various biohacking protocols developed in consultation with experts from sports medicine and longevity research. It's wellness as serious science rather than vague pampering, though the line between the two gets pleasantly blurry when you're floating in a heated pool watching alpenglow paint the peaks.
Rain 6, 5771 Leogang, Austria