2 humpback whale Hotels

At Hotel Icefiord in Ilulissat, Greenland, the staff keep a chalkboard in the restaurant where they mark a line for every whale spotted from the terrace each month. Some months it fills up fast. It's a bit of a running joke among them, but it also sums up the whole …

You can fly across most of Western Australia and see barely a soul below – just red earth, then blue water, then more red earth. Sal Salis sits right where those two extremes collide: a scattering of safari tents dropped between a national park full of gorges and kangaroos, and …