Wickaninnish Inn - Where Pacific Storms Meet Ancient Cedars

At the edge of the world, where ancient cedars meet crashing Pacific waves, sits a hotel that makes no apologies for its dramatic setting. The Wickaninnish Inn perches on a rocky headland at Chesterman Beach, five kilometers from the surfing town of Tofino on Vancouver Island's wild west coast. This isn't a place for those seeking predictable luxury – it's for travelers who want to feel the full force of nature while wrapped in cedar-scented comfort.

Tofino: Canada's Surfing Capital

Photo by Simone Mondino

Tofino started as a trading post in the 1870s, evolving into a haven for surfers, storm watchers, and anyone seeking to disconnect from urban life. The town sits within the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and Clayoquot Sound, a UNESCO biosphere that protects one of the world's last temperate rainforests. What was once accessible only by floatplane or treacherous logging roads now draws visitors year-round, from summer surfers to winter storm watchers who come to witness 20-foot waves pummeling the coastline.

Spectacular stormy weather during winter | Photo by Jeremy Koreski

The town maintains its laid-back character despite growing popularity. You'll find First Nations art galleries, craft breweries, and restaurants serving everything from fresh-caught halibut to Korean fusion. The Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations have called this region home for thousands of years, and their influence remains strong in local culture and place names – including Wickaninnish itself, named after a feared and respected 18th-century chief.

Photo by Wayne Barnes

Step out of the Wickaninnish Inn and you're on Chesterman Beach, a 2.7-kilometer stretch of sand that's become synonymous with Canadian surfing. The beach offers consistent waves suitable for beginners and experts alike, with local surf schools providing lessons and gear. During low tide, you can walk to Frank Island, while high tide brings waves that crash dramatically against the inn's rocky foundation. The water stays cold year-round, so wetsuits are essential, but the consistent swells and stunning backdrop make it worthwhile.

Two Buildings, One Vision

Photo by Chris Pouget

The inn consists of two cedar buildings that showcase what the McDiarmid family calls "rustic elegance on nature's edge." The original Wickaninnish-At-the-Pointe building, opened in 1996, sits directly on the rocky headland with panoramic ocean views. The newer Wickaninnish-On-the-Beach, added in 2003, nestles among ancient trees above the northern end of Chesterman Beach.

Both structures were carefully positioned to preserve as many trees as possible during construction. Local cedar, fir, and stone dominate the architecture, while floor-to-ceiling windows ensure you never lose sight of the Pacific. The buildings feel integrated into their environment rather than imposed upon it – a philosophy that extends throughout the property.

The Pointe Lobby | Photo by Kyler Vos

The Pointe building's lobby sets the tone with its soaring ceilings, massive stone fireplace, and windows that frame the endless Pacific horizon. Local artist Henry Nolla's handcrafted cedar doors welcome you into a space where driftwood sculptures and barnacle-encrusted bookends reflect the inn's oceanfront location.

The lobby serves as both gathering place and viewing platform, where you can watch storms roll in while staying warm and dry.

The Lookout Library | Photo by Jeremy Koreski

Tucked into the Beach building, the Lookout Library offers a quieter retreat with comfortable seating, local books, and binoculars for watching surfers tackle the waves below. The library stocks field guides to local flora and fauna alongside novels and travel writing, making it an ideal spot to plan your next adventure or simply watch the weather change over the Pacific. Board games and puzzles provide entertainment during stormy evenings when venturing outdoors isn't advisable.

Dining with a View

The Pointe Restaurant: Pacific Northwest on a Plate | Photo by Jeremy Koreski

The inn's dining venues take full advantage of their spectacular setting, but none more so than The Pointe Restaurant, which holds the distinction of being the only Four Diamond restaurant north of Victoria.

Executive Chef Warren Barr's menu celebrates the region's bounty with dishes that change seasonally but consistently showcase local ingredients. The restaurant's 240-degree ocean views compete with the food for your attention, but both deserve focus. Smoked salmon platters highlight the Pacific's legendary fish, while dishes like tenderloin with aged farmhouse cheddar showcase local farms and producers.

Oysters on the rocks | Photo by Kyler Vos

The five-course tasting menu offers the full range of Barr's creativity, paired with wines from British Columbia vineyards or international selections from Howard's Wine Cellar. The restaurant caters to various dietary preferences with dedicated vegan and vegetarian menus, ensuring no one misses out on the culinary experience.

For more casual dining, the Driftwood Café in the Beach building serves coffee, pastries, and light meals throughout the day. The café's wood-burning fireplace and boot dryer make it a perfect refuge after beach walks, while the On the Rocks Bar offers craft cocktails and a selection of single-malt scotches – one of British Columbia's largest collections.

Rooms Where Ocean Meets Forest

Chesterman Beach Loft Room | Photo by Kyler Vos

Every room faces the Pacific, though upper floors offer the most expansive views. Each accommodation features a gas fireplace, soaking tub, and private balcony with Adirondack chairs positioned for optimal storm watching. The décor emphasizes natural materials – hand-adzed cedar panels, driftwood furniture, and stone accents – while avoiding anything that might distract from the ocean views.

Chesterman Beach Loft's bathroom | Photo by Kyler Vos

The Beach Loft Suites provide the most space for families, with two levels including a separate sleeping area with queen sofa bed and full kitchen. These suites offer direct beach access and feel more like private retreats than hotel rooms.

Premier Room | Photo by Kyler Vos

Premier Corner Rooms in the Pointe building offer dual exposures with both south and west-facing windows, providing sunset views and maximum privacy.

Premier Double's bathroom | Photo by Anthony Redpath

These rooms are particularly popular during storm season when you can safely witness nature's power from behind large windows.

Dog-friendly hospitality | Photo by Dane and Dane

The inn welcomes dogs with specially designated pet-friendly rooms and thoughtful amenities including beds, treats, and toys. A pet shower station near the beach entrance helps clean sandy paws after beach adventures. The long stretch of Chesterman Beach provides excellent exercise opportunities for dogs, though they must be leashed in the national park areas.

The yoga studio

Ancient Cedars Spa offers private yoga sessions in the Rainforest Haven room, where floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto the forest canopy. Whether you're a beginner or experienced practitioner, instructors tailor sessions to your needs and experience level. The setting – surrounded by towering Sitka spruces and Western red cedars – provides a uniquely immersive environment for practice.

Ancient Cedars Spa: Forest Sanctuary

Ancient Cedars Spa patio | Photo by Jeremy Koreski

The spa occupies the ocean level of the Pointe building, sheltered by the forest fringe with treatment rooms facing the Pacific. Four treatment rooms and two couples' suites offer services inspired by First Nations healing traditions and local ingredients like seaweed and sea salt. The signature Hishuk Ish Tsawalk treatment combines fire, water, earth, and air elements in a ceremony that honors indigenous wisdom.

The spa's beautiful steam room | Photo by Anthony Redpath

A steam room and yoga room complete the facilities, while an ocean-facing patio provides space for meditation or quiet reflection. The spa's integration with its natural surroundings extends beyond décor – treatments often begin outdoors in the shade of ancient trees before moving inside for deeper work.

Beach Adventures and Coastal Biking

Chesterman Beach View from the Beach Building | Photo by Jenn Dykstra

Chesterman Beach offers tide pooling at low tide, when you can explore marine ecosystems and walk to Frank Island. The inn provides complimentary beach chairs, blankets, and all necessary gear for outdoor adventures. During storm season, the beach becomes a theater for nature's power as waves crash against offshore rocks and spray carries inland.

Photo by Jeremy Koreski

The inn's complimentary bikes allow exploration of Tofino's multi-use path system, which connects the inn to town through forest and waterfront routes. The five-kilometer ride to downtown Tofino passes through Pacific Rim National Park, offering chances to spot wildlife and explore side trails.

Ancient Forest Hot Springs | Photo by Michael Becker

A short boat ride from Tofino brings you to one of the region's most unique attractions: natural hot springs accessible only by water. The springs, reached through narrow channels flanked by towering cedars and firs, offer a distinctly Canadian wilderness experience. Local operators provide transportation and guide services, making this ancient site accessible while preserving its pristine character.

Wildlife Encounters

California Sea Lions | Photo by Izabela Elias

The waters around Tofino teem with marine life. Sea lions are frequently visible from the inn's rooms and restaurant, particularly during feeding times when they gather near offshore rocks. Their barking calls often provide a soundtrack to meals and evening relaxation on room balconies.

Bear | Photo by Izabela Elias

Black bears appear regularly along the shoreline, foraging in the intertidal zone for crabs and other marine delicacies. Bear watching tours operate year-round, with knowledgeable guides explaining these powerful animals' behavior and their crucial role in coastal ecosystems.

Orcas | Photo by Wick John Forde

Orcas pass through Clayoquot Sound seasonally, with spring and summer offering the best viewing opportunities. Gray whales migrate past Tofino twice yearly, while humpback whales have become increasingly common. Whale watching tours depart from Tofino's harbor, but sightings are possible from the inn's elevated position during peak migration periods.